The Last Two Days

We left Keene with a good forecast, and enjoyed driving the Molly Stark Parkway on a Sunday with lots of other motorcycles enjoying the ride. The roads are some of the best motorcycle roads we experienced on the trip! The leaves were just starting to change color! One more week, it looked like. A little stop in Vermont and back on the road…

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As we headed west, we found the roads become more flat and straight, but still amazing in views from the road…

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Jef needed a break…

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We decided to stay in Niagara Falls, the Canadian side, of course! We were stuck in border traffic for about an hour requiring more thigh master from Jeffrey…
Our hotel, good location, cheap, clean, but in need of repair…

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We headed down toward the falls for a bite, and ended at the Macaroni Grill, and then a bit of fun at the casino.

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Ohhh… P.s. don’t ask a man who is blind and sitting on a walker to take your picture…

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Ahem…that’s better….
A few more night pictures…

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Then a few pics in the morning, with a bit less rain…

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With a few hours of driving in the drizzle out of Buffalo, we were ready for home. The weather cleared, the sun warmed us a bit, and we rolled into the driveway around 6 pm. The bike was happy, the flag a bit worn, and the driver and passenger happy to be home! Hooha! J & M

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Morning in Bar Harbor

We cleaned up and headed out to dinner to The Blaze, a wood fired grill restaurant. Packed at 9pm, they boast a contemporary feel, modern menu, and 30+ craft beers on tap with a menu that helped pair beers with food. Jef had a Jerk grouper special and I had lobster and scallop risotto.

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The next morning, we were treated to a delicious breakfast of roasted grapefruit and blueberry pancakes (Tim’s specialty) and great conversation with the other guests at the Canterbury Cottage.

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We were still a little road weary from the previous day so we decided to wander around the town.

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After the rest, we got back on the bike and headed for New Hampshire. We thought we would ride maybe 280-300 miles. We needed fuel for the ride…

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We searched for a place to eat in Manchester, New Hampshire, and found The Red Arrow Diner, a place featured in Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, and rated as one of the best ten diners in the US. Usually they have a line to get in, but we hit dinner early, around 4, so we didn’t have to wait. The booth we sat in apparently sat Hillary Clinton, Ray Brewer and The Barenaked Ladies. I am sure those were interesting conversations at that booth! (to be a fly on the wall). Jef had the deep fried hamburger and onin rings, and I had the Sloppy Moe. Too much to finish for the both of us!

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It was a bit too early to stop, so we decided to drive a little further to a town called Peterborough. There was a quaint motel along a river called the Jack Daniel’s Motel, but it was full. So, we were told to head toward Keene, NH. It was cold, and we were getting tired, so we ended up at a Holiday Inn Express chain in suburbs of Keene with a clean room, warm shower and free breakfast to fuel us for the next ride. Hooha! Jef and Margi

The Day Garmin Tried To Kill Us

We woke up in Baddeck, NS to forecasts of possible rain, so we headed out early. We stopped in Antigonish, NS once we were out of Cape Breton for breakfast and to buy some RainX for the windshield. We had still not experienced any rain, but the skies were black. We enjoyed eggs Benny and a fresh breakfast burrito at the Prissy Pig and great coffee to fuel our adventures to come.

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We got on the bike again, geared up in our rain suits ready for whatever Mother Nature threw at us. We were driving on the main highway 104 as it started to pour. The rain gear seemed to be working, as long as you had it zipped up all the way and all the Velcro shut. We saw a sign with a gas pump, so we turned off thinking we would fill up quickly and get back on the road. Well, in Canada, if you don’t see the gas pump from the road, don’t turn off, because we ended up driving backwards almost to Pictou for gas ( probably 15km). In a downpour. So, we fueled up, looked at the map, and looked more direct at this point to travel route 6 to Amherst. In a downpour. Oh, and RainX only works when you are going 65mph. Anyway, the views would have been beautiful in nicer weather, along the Northumberland Strait. Seaside homes, farms, rolling terrain. Sorry, no pics because we were in a downpour. We got to Amherst and stood under the overpass for a little break.

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We stopped for gas, reapplied RainX and headed for New Brunswick. We got a bit of a break there as the rain subsided through most of the province. We had no traffic until we hit St. John during 5:00 rush hour and through construction. We were stopped about 20 minutes there on a steep incline which Jeffrey likens to holding a 800 lb thigh master while you simultaneously grip the clutch and the brake. Our plan at this point was to get back to Bar Harbor. The B&B we stayed at before had our room available, and the thought of soft lavender scented sheets and a warm shower was heavenly by this point in the trip. We had another 10 minute wait at the border, and then we headed toward Bar Harbor, of course looking out for moose as was warned by all.
We drove on 9 as it was getting dark, amidst drizzle. Jef kept having to stand up to look over the windshield as it was covered in raindrops. We should have trusted the map, we were cold and sick of the rain. We passed 193 which looked like a marked, paved road suitable for night driving in the rain. But no, Garmin was also tired, wet, and seeking revenge on this eve of Friday the 13th and sent us down 179. A pitch black lake road, 20 miles in the pouring rain with the occasional truck coming at us with their brights on. No markings on the road. On a motorcycle. In a downpour. 20 miles in 40 minutes, maybe more. That took us to Ellsworth, where we saw signs of life again, and headed to the Canterbury Cottage. We rolled in 830ish Bar Harbor time, where we met Tim out front. It had stopped raining, and he suggested a great place for us to eat, as we hadn’t eaten since Antigonish this morning. We got through it mostly dry, despite all the rain. Both our gloves were soaked, a little dampness in our shoes, due to riding through puddles, but the gear passed the test!! What a day!! Whew-ha! J&M

The Cabot Trail… An Epic Ride

We headed from Sydney to the Cabot Trail on a beautiful warm day with highs predicted at 27 degrees Celsius. We first had an appointment at McKenzie Motorsports, 11 clicks after the red barn on the north leg of the Cabot Trail toward Cheticamp. We stopped in Sydney at two motorcycle shops but they didn’t have our tire in stock. At Gord’s, he was nice enough to call McKenzie’s and get things arranged for us for the morning. We rolled up at 9 and they were ready for us, and got us hooked up by ten. It was like having our own pit crew on the trail!!

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Riding the Cabot Trail was epic!! Beautiful ocean views on the Acadian side of he trail. The roads were so fun to ride on motorcycle with twists, turns, and hills.

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The ride through the Cape Breton Highlands National park was epic!! We have some videos we will upload later. We got a kick of the signs posted warning of the dangers of poison ivy… Not the 200 foot cliffs!

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The roads were smooth and perfect for motorcycles, except one section where we took the coastal loop past White Point and Neil’s Harbour. Very bumpy, rough roads tough for a bike.

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We stopped by the Gaelic College at the end of our ride, and decided to stay in Baddeck for another night after the mental fatigue Jeffrey had after the amazing ride.
We stopped by The Telegraph Hotel and got a cabin again, perfect after a long day of riding.

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A quick dinner at the Yellow Cello with decent food, but a waitress with an attitude, then an early night. Hooha!! J&M

Plan B in Baddeck, NS

After getting into Baddeck, we found a place to stay. We found a nice cabin at the Telegraph Hotel off the main strip in Baddeck.

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We walked around, had a drink at the Yellow Cello, and chose the Lynwood Inn to eat supper.

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Jeffrey had steak and shrimp, and I had lobster and mussels. We were planning to drive the Cabot Trail the next morning, but it was looking as if weather had a different plan…
We woke up to slight drizzles and chance of showers with a great forecast tomorrow. We decided on Plan B, hang out in Baddeck and then head to Sydney to visit family.
After a couple of coffees and cranberry scone from the bakery across the street, we had some good conversation with our neighbour Tom who did the Cabot trail the day before.

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We headed down to the Alexander Graham Bell museum that outlines the genius that he was. He not only invented the telephone, but was the father of speech therapy and had an avid interest in flight and hydrofoil technology. He and his family had a home in Baddeck as it reminded him of his roots in Scotland.

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We had some beautiful views in Baddeck…

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But then it was time to head to Sydney when trouble happened…..

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Jeffrey noticed the back tire was squishy, and after a quick check, found a nail in our back tire. He aired it up on our way to see family.
Once we hit Sydney, he found that we lost 10 psi in 3 hours… So we added slime to plug the hole…

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We visited Aunt Marie….and Tessie….

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And Uncle Jim and Aunt Mary….

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They gave us a wonderful meal and place to stay…. And before both of them, we saw Grandma one more time, and she insisted on going for a ride…

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(Her idea… Ok… She didn’t ride, but she did ask us to hide her cane! ) Hooha Grandma!

Cape Breton History…. Bryden homestead and the Highland Village

After Louisbourg, we headed to Iona to the Highland Village and stopped by my father’s childhood home.

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Then a short visit with my Aunt Linda ….

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(We plan to stay longer next time …)

Then, to the Highland Village. We met my Uncle Jim who is the operations manager and gave us a personalized tour of the village. It outlines life for our Gaelic ancestors who came from Scotland in the 1700s through to the 1900s. As you tour the village, the actors help you understand what their life was like for their ancestors who settled in Cape Breton. The village boasts original buildings which demonstrate the type of homes the Gaelic would be living in during each period, including a working carding mill, blacksmith shop and church. There are also animals on the property that would be representative of the animals the Gaelic people would have access to.

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Off to the Little Narrows ferry … Next stop.. Baddeck, NS!

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Cape Breton History… Louisbourg

After the visit to Grandma, we headed to Louisbourg to see the Fortress and get a bit of Cape Breton history. We stayed at the Fortress Inn, a simple roadside motel with the basics.

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We ate dinner across the street at the Grubstake. Very unassuming on the outside, but it was open in the 1800’s. We enjoyed a massive halibut steak special, and Digby scallops.

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The next morning, we headed out to the Fortress. We paid the regular tour price, which lets you wander around on your own, and then we added the time travel option, where we paid another 7.50 each to have period actors take you around to the different buildings and exhibits. We were very impressed with the restorations, and the great history given to us by the period actors of the life of the French soldiers that came to Louisbourg, the servants, the Engineer, commissar and governor. I took history in school, but learned much more on the early history of Canada and how important Cape Breton was to North America, the export of fish and resources to Europe, and the history of our ancestors during this trip than all the years in school!!

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After a full day in Louisbourg, we headed out toward Eskasoni and Castle Bay to tour my father’s childhood home and on our way to tour the Highland Village for our Gaelic heritage.

Truro, NS to Grandma Bryden

In Truro we stayed at the Stonehouse motel and restaurant. It was a quick off the highway to a nice clean room with a nice Acadian restaurant, Cafe l’Acadie, where we enjoyed a great breakfast before we headed out. I enjoyed fish cakes and baked beans, a more traditional Acadian meal, while Jeffrey fueled up on eggs, bacon and toast.

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We headed out on a beautiful day to Cape Breton, where the views became progressively more beautiful.

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We took highway 4, the fleur de lis trail to Sydney, NS and enjoyed great motorcycle roads, picturesque views and splendid weather. I wish I could have taken photo after photo, there was so much to see.

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We arrived in Sydney to visit my Grandma Bryden who is 93 years young. We had great conversations and I enjoyed introducing her to my husband for the first time.

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We talked about family history and where our people came from, and I enjoyed learning about Thomas Bryden whose ship sank on the way to Canada, and he ended up on a ship with Scots heading to Cape Breton. The picture above is of my great grandmother, my Grandma’s mother, who lived well into her 90’s. Both Grandma and Aunt Cathy have been rich historians on this trip, and this has helped ground me to this land. Hooha! Jef & Margi

Rainy Day in Spencer’s Island, NS

We woke up on a rainy Sunday morning, spending the day with family (and off the bike). We drove from Amherst, NS to Spencer’s Island, NS with a few delightful stops in between. First we stopped at the Age of Sail Heritage Centre in Port Greville, NS on the tidal Greville river. After a cup of tea served in proper tea cups, my cousin Rachel gave us a tour of the museum. The museum holds so much history of the shipbuilding industry that used the Minas Basin timber. Her father’s side of the family came from ship captains and some of her own family history was preserved at the museum which made the tour even more interesting.

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After the tour, we drove a short distance to the Wild Caraway Restaurant and Cafe in Advocate Harbour, NS on the Bay of Fundy. It is a farm to fork restaurant serving locally sourced fish, meat, and produce including several raised beds right on their property. The restaurant is located in a renovated century old home that supports and sells work from local artists. Reservations are recommended as it has devotees that travel just to eat at this establishment. We enjoyed scrumptious seafood chowder with huge chunks of haddock and scallops, and authentic fish and chips.

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After eating, we drove to Cape Chignecto Provincial Park, Nova Scotia’s largest provincial park. It has several day to multi-day hiking trails along the Bay of Fundy coastline. We weren’t able to hike due to the weather, but this is definitely a destination for anyone who enjoys hiking.

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We headed to Spencer’s Island where my Aunt and Uncle have a seaside home on the Bay of Fundy. The views were spectacular, and hopefully will house a B&B, inn, event facility, or whatever else they can dream up as it is a shame not to share those views with others.

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Their view looks down at a lighthouse and commemorative plaque of the Mary Celeste, a famous mystery of a family that disappeared without a trace from their ship. The Age of Sail museum also outlined this mystery.

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After a full day and some more goodbyes, we left Amherst, NS and headed to Truro, NS for the night before heading to Cape Breton. Hooha!! J & M

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Route to Amherst, Nova Scotia

After a great breakfast at The Canterbury Cottage, we headed out on our journey to Nova Scotia. We rode through Acadia National Park, but couldn’t do the whole loop to Cadillac mountain because of time.

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We drove through Maine on route 9 which took us to Calais without much traffic and turned out to be a great motorcycle road.

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We crossed the border into New Brunswick and added an accessory to our motorcycle to celebrate the occasion.

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New Brunswick is such a beautiful province! Hilly, trees as far as the eyes can see, water, rivers…an outdoor paradise. Despite being a weekend, there was barely any traffic between major cities.

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We arrived in Nova Scotia in very high crosswinds for the last 10 miles of our trip so we were ready to get off the bike. Aunt Cathy and Uncle Don had a scrumptious home cooked meal waiting for us. We enjoyed great company and warm bed before embarking on the adventure to Spencer’s Island the next day.

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Hooha!! Jef and Margi